Showing posts with label mission street food. Show all posts
Showing posts with label mission street food. Show all posts

11.13.2008

pressure.

pressure.

you just got destroyed. service is almost over--the other cooks are starting to put away mise, wash down, eat family meal. you're paralyzed--a thousand yard stare, a filthy apron, and a burn on your knuckles that's already bubbled up into a painful blister. you did 300 covers tonight, and sold more fish and pasta than ever. and you did it the hard way. no one is really talking, or looking at you. there are no pats on the back tonight. everyone just looks at the ground when they scurry past you. then your sous steps into your station, arms folded, and lets out a deep breath.

"so...what do you think happened tonight?"
"i dont know. i was slammed."
"did you feel prepared going into service? are you still having problems with the fish?"
"no, i felt fine. the fish is ok...i just need more practice with it."
"let me tell you what i saw. you looked frantic. you seemed disorganized, and i saw you call the prep cook over about a dozen times to get more mise for you. you didn't get any re-fires tonight, but that was because the guests opted for something else than have you cook another plate for them."
"well im trying as hard as i can."

well, no, you arent. you think you're pushing as hard as you can. but at the end of the night, when your energy is spent, and you don't think you can cook one more plate, have you ever asked yourself "how could I have been better?" a cook that believes they are trying as hard as they can is also a cook that shuts down when things get hard. they stop calling orders back, they stop calling out their movements, and they throw up their arms in surrender when the tickets keep coming. do you remember that feeling? the feeling that service will never end? the feeling of complete helplessness? like you just want to let out a primal scream, throw all your sauces on the ground, walk off the line and apply for a job at a bookstore? have you ever looked at that printer, endlessly chattering away at you and yelled "FUCK YOUUUUUUUU PRINTERRRRR!!!!"

if this is happening to you, you need to evalute every service. look for those moments when you were really under pressure, and ask yourself where you started to take shortcuts. where are you weak? which dishes give you that heartbreaking feeling when they come in? are you setting goals for yourself? are you truly focusing completely on the task at hand? have you prepared adequetly? are you using the right tools for the right job? and lastly, the hardest question to ask yourself: are you the weak link?

when a cook shuts down, it means everyone else is now having to adjust their routine because of this one person. since the communication has stopped, the cooks around this person have to watch them now--is the food being cooked? did he hear the order? is she close to picking up? did they forget the garnish on that app that just went up? the sous chef has to call orders over and over again--diverting his or her attention from the other dozen things going on at that moment. and the chef has a red light going off in their head now; that base trust on the dishes that are 'easy' is gone. every plate has to be scrutinized now. the rhythym of the kitchen has to change. the tempo slows down. ticket times grow. mistakes become more frequent. you get so wrapped up in your own head that you forget to stab the new tickets coming in and cook old orders twice. your sous chef and chef will ultimately take the blame for this service--but you know who the blame really belongs to.

the solution is simple: you never leave the line--physically or mentally. you do not shut down on yourself, or your fellow cooks. you always call back your orders, even if you won't remember them two minutes later. you focus on every task, no matter how small. and you commit to perfection. not actually being perfect...just trying.


photoblog - october/november

for halloween, all the nopa cooks dressed up like the servers. there were strange hats and donuts involved.

above: sg-120 at blue bottle, western addition pancetta, lamb, corey's guanciale, lamb sammie, rabbit 2 ways, drying pancetta, a typical nopa pickup, and my rabbit.

i fucking hate sugary fries.

notes:

  • le tigre is better than bikini kill
  • being just barely sick is annoying. id rather be full blown spinning and puking.
  • mission street food is still looking for guest chefs. this means you.
  • want.
  • there are many unwritten rules in the kitchen: dont call in sick, hands off my mise en place, always call your movements, an extern yields right of way to a more experienced cook. what else?
  • life is beautiful, even when it's not.
  • when a guy google searches a cute girl, its stalking. when a cute girl google searches a guy, its awesome. sorry, thats just the way it is.
  • socom confrontation for the ps3. a $50 bluetooth headset that comes with a $10 game.
  • i need new shoes. preferably nike. any suggestions?
  • ryan farr has a cool blog.
  • top chef has someone doing global small plates. that sounds familiar. it also has an overtanned cougar, and a douchey miami guy. in the first five minutes a guy refers to himself as a queen. if it were staying on my tivo, (which its not) i would be pulling for jamie lauren (go sf) or the hawaiian or finnish dude. and since when is brunoise the hardest knife skill?
  • just got called into work. gotta go.

quotes.
  • "I used to work at a pizza hut call center. That job sucked." - Corey
  • "I used to go there a lot." -Merrell in reference to Q-Zar lazer tag.
  • "Can we please stop talking about my va-jay-jay?" -Merrell


the playlist, rock band edition
  1. she sells sanctuary - the cult
  2. just what i needed - the cars
  3. pda - interpol
  4. here comes your man - the pixies
  5. my best friend's girl - the cars
  6. lazy eye - silversun pickups
  7. psycho killer - talking heads
  8. anyway you want it - journey
  9. bad reputation - joan jett
  10. territorial pissings - nirvana

10.29.2008

Some weeks there's just too much going on.

Oh my, we have so much to talk about.  First things first:

  • Nopa needs a cook.  Someone intelligent, hard working, and passionate about food.  An interest in organics and sustainability are a plus.  You can email me, or drop by Nopa (560 Divisadero @ Hayes) to have a chat and a stage. 
  • Anthony Myint of Bar Tartine, and recently the Mission Street Food truck contacted me and is planning to sublet a kitchen and bring in cooks to showcase their food--"kind of an attempt to create an indie chef movement" to put it in his words.  It sounds very, very interesting--the kind of thing that cooks always talk about doing but never actually see through.  So there it is--two exciting opportunities to be a part of San Francisco's unique dining scene.



Eating out in SF is fun.  It's such a small city, and an even smaller restaurant industry, so when you go out you'll always run into people you know, offering their favorite dishes and a smile.  Before I moved here, it seemed so daunting;  Was I good enough to hack it in SF?  Were the cooks there different?  Now that i'm here I feel like im part of something--this familial community.  Eating out and/or cooking for others brings on a warmth that I cant describe.  Sure, ive had bad meals, but they were nothing that a good meal at Delfina or Magnolia couldn't cure.  So when Corey relayed his story about eating in Lafayette, I had to laugh:

--he's eating in a new, hip spot, and is enjoying his food.  he thought the fries were really well done, so he asks the server how they do them, what kind of potato, etc.  the server doesn't know, so she asks the kitchen.  the answer that comes back is:  "Look on the Bouchon page on Thomas Keller's website.  That's how we do them."   Well what a stupid fucking answer.  This is what I don't understand:
  1. Why wouldnt the server know something as rudimentary as how the fries are made?
  2. Why couldn't the chef just give a straight answer?
  3. Why did the chef feel the need to reference Thomas Keller?
  4. Did the chef know that Bouchon uses frozen fries?
So what is it about the San Francisco dining scene that makes us want to share and serve each other?  I remember when I was working in Walnut Creek that there was this feeling of rivalry among all the eateries there.  Sure, we would get VIP's in, and they would get styled out, but there was never that good feeling about doing it.  Especially in the VDV kitchen:  We thought we were the best in town, and we wanted everyone to know it.  One has to wonder, why isn't that communal spirit more alive out there?  (this isn't to say that this sense of community doesn't exist in Berkeley, Oakland, or Albany)

Seeing chefs from so many great restaurants (there was a sixteen star table the other night--one 4 star chef and four 3 star chefs), coming together and sharing--that's really what this job is all about, isn't it?


How to save your kitchen money in a hard economy.
  • Use everything.  Fennel tops.  Celery leaves.  Pork trim.  Fish bones.  Keep a spatula close, and use it to scrape down everything.
  • Revisit your recipes.  Where are you not being efficient?  Are there ingredients in there that you could be making in house?  Cheeses, spice blends, curry paste, breads, charcuterie, pastas--you can make them better than what you're buying...and for cheaper
  • Cook seasonally for fucks sake. 
  • Get to know your purveyors.  Learn who to trust, and who not to.  Don't be afraid to ask for a cheaper price. 
  • Change your menu when you need to, not just when you want to.  If something isn't working, change it.  Move your ingredients around so as to not to have certain items that really sell, and other that are just there.
  • Dont be afraid of the oily fish.  $20 a pound snapper vs $1.95 a pound mackeral.  You figure it out.
  • Limit your menu.  Any menu over 25 items is really tipping the scales.  One fish entree, one steak, one pork/duck/chicken item.  Offer a veggie entree.  Don't get carried away with foie gras and caviar.
  • Use everyones ideas.  A cook on a station knows exactly how much mise en place they need for a night--so ask them how much prep they think they'll need for a service.  Analyze your prep list constantly.
  • Get creative with family meal.  The true test of a cook is taking all those leftovers and making something that will satiate twenty cranky servers.


notes:
  • making fun of ann might cause her to dunk your hand in the deep fryer
  • sometimes sitting around all day, drinking beer and playing rock band is ok.
  • this blog turned 1 year old in September.  it's gotten thousands and thousands of visitors, and the emails and comments i've recieved have been really nice.  i plan to keep updating as much as my schedule allows me to, and to keep it ad free (except for my adsense experiment all the way at the bottom--net profits to date?  14 cents.)  in the future im hoping to offer a drm free linecook related book or something, but in the meantime, thank you for reading and commenting.
  •  quote of the week, paraphrased:  "No matter how much you might hate that guy next to you on the line--i mean really hate, if you were at a bar and someone fucked with them, you would kill that person."  -Chef
  • Nopa's press this week:  7x7, Food And Wine, San Francisco Magazine, and Check Please Bay Area (link lands you at the start of the Nopa segment.)  You'll get to see Chef, Al, Corey, Paul, Ann, and even me in action.
  • other quotes this week:  question:  "You remember the sluttiest girl you ever boned down with?"  answer:  "Yeah dude, I married her"  -Corey  Quote #2:  "I'd put my pen in her inkwell."  -Corey
  • next week:  my old blog revisited, cooks that shut down under pressure, and the worst chef I ever worked with.


where this blog is written.

the end of service.

the middle of the line, mid service.

pasta party.

I bet Ponder an Asahi that he couldn't eat this whole dessert in one bite.  He did.

Start of service cocktail:  Blue bottle espresso and a popsicle in sparkling water.